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JEAN DESMARES, 1920s A 750‰ yellow gold and 950‰ platinum be…
See original version (French)
42
-
JEAN DESMARES, 1920s A 750‰ yellow gold and 950‰ platinum be…
See original version (French)
Estimate €6,000 - €8,000
Voluntary lot
Description
JEAN DESMARES, 1920s
A 750‰ yellow gold and 950‰ platinum beauty case with geometric decoration in cloisonné black lacquer applied with lines of rose-cut diamonds mounted in a pearl setting, the lid adorned with a rectangular jade plaque carved and pierced with a bird motif among flowers and foliage.
Fitted with a hinge, it opens to reveal a mirror, two compartments and a lipstick case, the push-buttons and grips highlighted with onyx plaques.
French work, diamond-shaped hallmark of the Jean DESMARES workshop.
Dimensions: 5.4x8.4x1.6cm.
P. Gross weight: 209.2 g.
(Slight scratches, some restorations to the enamel).
Jean DESMARES was a French jeweller born in 1872, specialising in the manufacture of ladies' cases and cigarette cases. Although he took part in the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs in his own name, where he won a gold medal, he is best known for his work in the 1920s for major houses such as Lacloche Frères and Van Cleef & Arpels.
This beauty kit is a testament to Desmarès' technical expertise and ingenuity. The jeweller showed great inventiveness, cunningly devising mechanisms and fittings to design a utilitarian object. But it also showcases Desmarès' taste and elegance, fully in keeping with the triumphant aesthetic of Art Deco, as expressed here by geometric and linear engravings and by inspiration drawn from Asian art with delicate work in jade and lacquer.
Desmarès' creations met with international success: at the time, he had a branch in London and represented France at the French Art Exhibition in New York in 1924 and at the Jewellery Exhibition in Madrid in 1927.
Bibliography:
- MOUILLEFARINE Laurence and RISTELHUEBER Véronique, Lacloche joailliers, Paris, Editions Norma l'Ecole des arts joailliers, 2019.
- Le bijou dessiné, cat. exp. (Paris, Ecole des arts joailliers, 14 October 2021-14 February 2022), GLORIEUX Guillaume (dir.), Paris, Norma éditions l'Ecole des arts joailliers, 2021.
See original version (French)
Auto-translation. Refer to original language for legal validity.
Pictures credits: Contact the Auction House
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