1 / 3
Featured lot selected by the auctions House.
Premium Gros & Delettrez
58
-
Attributed to the House of BOUCHERON, 1930s
"Crémaillère" br…
See original version (French)
58
-
Attributed to the House of BOUCHERON, 1930s
"Crémaillère" br…
See original version (French)
Estimate €8,000 - €12,000
Voluntary lot
Description
Attributed to the House of BOUCHERON, 1930s
"Crémaillère" bracelet in yellow gold 750‰ composed of three rows of geometric oblong links with articulated cut sides, the ends of which are set with calibrated sapphires. Toggle clasp concealed within a link.
Marked "DEPOSE".
French work, diamond hallmark of the Charles ARFVIDSON workshop.
Length: 18cm. Mesh width: 1.1cm.
P. Gross weight: 47.4 g.
(Scratches and wear, chips).
Initially known as "Bâtonnets trois rangs", this bracelet was later renamed "Crémaillère" or "Tank". It was with this type of design that Boucheron really became part of the modernist movement in the 1930s and set itself apart from its competitors.
With its simple, robust lines borrowing from the vocabulary of industrial architecture, the bracelet features a purely geometric decoration formed of articulated rods with sapphires set at the ends. They evoke minerality, geological formations and the teeth of a gear train. This construction gives the piece an evolving character: viewed one way, the bracelet reveals only the gold, while the sapphires are revealed when it is turned over and set in motion. Despite its solid, structured appearance, the mesh of this Crémaillère bracelet is extremely supple, giving it comfort and fluidity.
It is also worth noting that the use of yellow gold, which had fallen into disuse in previous decades in favour of platinum, marks an early return here, heralding its rehabilitation in jewellery production in the 1940s. Boucheron has thus demonstrated a remarkable modernity, which it is important to highlight.
Bibliography: - MOUILLEFARINE, Laurence et POSSEME, Evelyne (Dir.), Bijoux Art Déco et Avant-garde, Editions Norma / Les Arts décoratifs, Paris, 2009.
- GABARDI, Mélissa, Les bijoux de l'Art Déco aux années 40, Les éditions de l'Amateur, Paris, 1986.
See original version (French)
Auto-translation. Refer to original language for legal validity.
Pictures credits: Contact the Auction House
You may also like