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Premium Gros & Delettrez
30
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CARTIER London, c. 1925
See original version (French)
30
-
CARTIER London, c. 1925
See original version (French)
Estimate €2,000 - €3,000
Voluntary lot
Description
CARTIER London, c. 1925
A navette-shaped brooch in 750‰ yellow gold and 850‰ platinum centred on a rectangular frame of barrel-shaped rock crystal with scalloped shoulders, flanked by two stylised foliage motifs enhanced with black and red enamel and set with cabochon emeralds and 8/8-cut diamonds. Pin in 750‰ yellow gold.
Traces of the number ‘?985’ and a point engraving reading ‘EX41’.
Dimensions: 2.3 x 5.1 cm.
Gross weight: 8.8 g.
(Minor chips and scratches to the enamel; slight scuffs on the emeralds).
Accompanied by an IAJA certificate of authenticity dated 11 September 2026 (No. XP3173-110926) stating: Cartier London, circa 1925.
This brooch, through its materials, design and motifs, is a characteristic example of the influence of Persian and Indian arts on the London creations of the House of Cartier in the 1920s.Exuding exquisite refinement, the structure of this brooch is built around a piece of cut and polished rock crystal, giving the whole a floating, graphic appearance. Widely used by Cartier during the Art Deco period – particularly in the creation of this type of brooch – onyx often takes the place of rock crystal to highlight contrasts. In the same vein, the use of red enamel with black lines, contrasting with the green of the emeralds, recalls the colour combinations employed in the creation of other Art Deco pieces, often adorned with coral, onyx and emeralds, such as the iconic Daisy Fellowes bracelet. Its shoulder design draws directly on an oriental, and more specifically Indian, ornamental vocabulary. These influences can be traced back in particular to the travels of Jacques Cartier. Whilst at the helm of Cartier London, he forged close ties with the Maharajas during these journeys, bringing back designs, jewellery and objects that became sources of inspiration for the workshops.
See original version (French)
Auto-translation. Refer to original language for legal validity.
Pictures credits: Contact the Auction House
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