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68 - A rare set comprising a banyan and an embroidered Chinese sa…
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Estimate €10,000 - €20,000
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Description
A rare set comprising a banyan and an embroidered Chinese satin dressing jacket from the wardrobe of a wealthy Lyon bourgeois, circa 1760, Imperial yellow satin featuring a gold thread in the warp of the selvedge, embroidery in vivid polychrome colours, mainly in running stitch and knot stitch using mouliné thread, decorated with an openwork pattern of roses, peonies, carnations, imaginary flowers, sinuous leaves, holly leaves and red berries. A banyan or men’s dressing gown with a stand-up collar, fastened with a single button, long sleeves with wide cuffs, and featuring two slit pockets. Lined in green taffeta (in good condition, with vibrant colours, some signs of wear). Long-sleeved jacket with peplum, buttons at the cuffs, featuring two flap pockets; the upper back is undecorated; the green taffeta lining has been almost entirely removed (replaced small-holed buttons and a small stain on the back; minor wear to the satin on the front). Shoulder width approximately 34.3 cm. In the 18th century, these exotic-style indoor garments were rare, intended for a clientele keen to display their distinction and wealth within the family circle, which included close friends. Men wore them with a matching cap, which replaced the wig worn outdoors during the day. They could be made of ‘indienne’ fabric, but it is understandable that this prominent Lyonnais gentleman – likely a well-known actor at the Fabrique – would not have chosen this material. There are also examples made from plain and patterned silks; embroidered silks, on the other hand, are much rarer and more expensive. The satin is Chinese, probably transported by ships of the East India Company; the design is similar to that of silks embroidered or painted in China during the same period and intended for the European market. It may have been embroidered in France based on these designs, much like certain painted silks that a Lyon-based merchant-manufacturer produced in large quantities from the 1740s onwards to meet demand. Provenance: Preserved in Lyon within the family of a patrician lineage. In the 18th century, this family was connected to the very best of Lyon’s bourgeoisie. Several of its members, who held important positions in the trade within the Grande Fabrique, may well have commissioned this flamboyant outfit. Among them, Joseph Marie Guérin (1738–1795) of the silk trading firm Veuve Guérin et fils – originally from Saint-Chamond but conducting his business in Lyon – could be a serious contender. Ennobled in 1753, he served as a deputy for the Rhône-et-Loire department in the Estates General and later became Mayor of Saint-Chamond in 1792.
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About the sale TEXTILE HERITAGE #18
Auction location
Auction time 09/21/2026 at 2:30 PM
Pictures modified on 09/04/2026 at 4:09 PM
Lot description modified on 09/02/2026 at 2:38 PM
Pictures credits: Contact the Auction House
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