the small dolphin is made of wood and has a gold accenta close up of a gold and grey ring on a white background
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204 - CARTIER, 1980s–1990s
See original version (French)

Estimate €3,500 - €4,500
Description
CARTIER, 1980s–1990s ‘Dauphin’ pendant in 750‰ yellow gold and Silverium (800‰ silver), the suspension ring in the shape of a twisted hoop through which the animal appears to be leaping, its eye set with a facetted oval emerald in a closed-set mounting. Signed ‘Cartier’, marked ‘© CARTIER 1989’ and numbered ‘R00249’. Made in France, with the diamond-shaped hallmark of the Atelier Andrée VACHEY. Dimensions: 4.6 x 4.1 cm. Gross weight: 34.9 g. (Slight scratches from wear and oxidation). In the 1980s and 1990s, CARTIER distinguished itself through the creation of numerous collections – the most iconic of which are the ‘Panthers’ – combining yellow gold with a very specific material: Silverium. This material was developed by the goldsmith and sculptor Lucien VACHEY – who registered the patent in the 1980s, along with several further patents for improvements in the years that followed – and consists of a solid-coloured blackened silver alloy. As a jewellery workshop, Vachey also produced numerous pieces for CARTIER, such as those presented here. This material is particularly remarkable because its colour is dyed throughout the mass, as opposed to surface-colouring techniques, thus ensuring the colour of the finished piece remains enduring. Through these pieces combining gold and Silverium, we are transported back into the history of jewellery workshops, which played a pivotal role in developing new techniques and expertise, and served as essential suppliers to the great Parisian jewellery houses, having contributed significantly to their international renown.
See original version (French)
About the sale Antique & modern jewellery
Auction location
Auction time 09/25/2026 at 2:00 PM
Pictures credits: Contact the Auction House
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