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a close up of a bracelet with green and red stonesa close up of a diamond and emerald bracelet on a white background
BOISGIRARD - ANTONINI

Estimate €10,000 - €12,000
Sale commission
Description
CHAUMET Rare Art Deco ‘ribbon’ bracelet with engraved gemstone decoration A supple, articulated bracelet in platinum and 18-carat white gold (750 ‰), comprising seven rectangular links joined by stepped spacers entirely set with old-cut and eight-eight-cut diamonds. Each link is centred on an oval-shaped coloured gem carved into an engraved cabochon — four rubies and three emeralds arranged alternately — set within a circle of diamonds. The geometric precision of the design, the articulation of the links and the symmetry of the composition are characteristic of the House’s Art Deco aesthetic. Signed J. CHAUMET / PARIS LONDON / NEW YORK. French craftsmanship. Hallmarks: dog’s head (platinum) and eagle’s head (18-carat gold); maker’s mark. Circa 1926, altered in 1932. Length (including clasp): 18.2 cm — Width: 1.1 cm — Gross weight: 33.36 g. Stones (according to the House’s archives, 1932): — 4 engraved rubies, 11.54 carats; — 3 engraved emeralds, 6.62 carats; — diamonds, approximately 4.45 carats. Accompanied by a report from the French Gemmological Laboratory No. 426537 dated 19 June 2026, stating: four rubies (natural corundums), with no thermal treatment observed, from Burma (Myanmar), total estimated weight approximately 12.1 ct; three emeralds (natural beryls), from Russia, showing a slight improvement in clarity (oil treatment), estimated total weight approximately 7.1 ct. Provenance: Commissioned from Maison Chaumet in 1932 by an industrialist from Lyon’s upper middle class, who paid 40,000 francs for it and requested that it be dispatched to Lyon (Paris–Cannes Visitors’ Book, 30 January and 15 March 1932). A unique piece, this bracelet was originally crafted around 1926 in platinum, set with diamonds and accented with calibrated sapphires (stock record no. 21364). In 1932, at the request of its client from Lyon, the sapphires were replaced with emeralds and rubies engraved ‘according to a wax model’, and the bracelet was shortened at the same time. The use of engraved rubies, emeralds and sapphires first appeared at Chaumet as early as the 1911s. At that time, the House acquired most of these gemstones as cabochons before having them carved in its gem-cutting workshop, drawing inspiration from the repertoire of Indian art — a practice that continued until, in the wake of the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, dealers began to specialise in supplying carved stones from India. A certificate of authenticity from Chaumet’s Heritage Department, dated 15 July 2026, together with the report from the Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie referred to above, will be provided to the purchaser. The Chaumet archive file includes photographs of the House’s studio (12 November 1927 and 22 February 1932) and extracts from the 1932 Invoice Book and Visitors’ Register. We would like to express our sincere thanks to the Heritage Department of Maison Chaumet for their generous assistance in compiling this catalogue entry.
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About the sale Charity sale in aid of the Petits Frères Des Pauvres charity
Auction location
Auction time 10/25/2026 at 10:00 AM
Pictures credits:
Boisgirard Antonini
See original version (French)
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